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The Cafe Romper by SS&G (Sew Straight and Gather)


Happy Girl Side View

I am really pleased with Susan's newest dress. Sew Straight and Gather just released the Cafe Romper and I tested size four with a regular yoke, sleeves, and a skirt for Susan.  (I received the finished pattern for free in exchange for testing).  It is on sale through Sunday for $5CAD.  The pattern offers instructions to make the pattern with a blind tucked front and back yoke, pants and shorts options as well.
This is not a quick sew, but it is a beautiful finished garment.  The pattern offers a tucked yoke, fully lined yoke (allowing you to use lace), hidden button placket, curved inset pockets, belt loops, and a belt.
Pattern Features
  • Layers
  • No-Trim Pages
  • Notches for matching pieces when sewing
  • Grainlines
  • Nice even grading (no size lines cross in random ways, asymmetrical sleeve and pants have a proper back rise)
  • Separate PDFs for the Instructions and Pattern 
  • Sizes 2 - 12
  • Child's Measurement Size Chart (features neck to waist measurement)
  • Finished Measurement Size Chart (includes crotch arc measurement)
  • Cutting Layouts
  • Sewing Practices (where all seam finishing, curve clipping, and general sewing information is located)
  • Instructions for modifying the pattern for length
  • Quick click links to tutorials and tab based navigation for the instructions (click on the tab to go to the relevant section).
  • Sewing Glossary of Terms

I used butterfly Kam Snaps in the hidden placket.
The pattern is very well thought out and came together nicely.  Since this is a romper pattern and the waist level and crotch arc are important SS&G provides both measurements to help you get the right fit the first time.   There are detailed instructions to create tucks on fabric that you use for the front and back yokes.  Even if you opt against tucking the fabric you can use lace overlays and other feature fabrics for the yokes, because they are fully lined.  The  bodice has a hidden button placket.  The placket features separate pieces for the left and right side that fit together perfectly, thanks to the notches, for a pristine finish.  The pants, shorts and skirt all feature adorable pockets.

Pockets!


 Recommended Fabrics from the pattern
MAIN: Lightweight fabric such as chambray, linen, cotton & blends, cotton shirting, cotton poplin, lightweight twill, lightweight denim, voile, lawn, lace (accent for yoke). A mechanical to 10% stretch across is fine.
LINING: Bodice yoke and pocket bags -- same as above.

Back View
Front View
I had originally planned on using the floral lawn for myself, but when this pattern came along I knew I wanted to use something nicer than quilting cotton.  I paired it with a solid purple Linen/Rayon from Jo-Ann's.  I'm really happy with the simple combination and how nicely it drapes when worn.  The pattern has a lot of pieces and if you want to you could opt for one fabric or many different fabrics through the garment.  I wanted the yoke to stand out and to have the placket blend in on top, so I choose this combination.


Inside Front
Inside Back
Construction instructions are fine for an intermediate pattern.  If someone is new to sewing they will probably miss finishing important seams, since the focus on finishing seams is mainly in the best sewing practices section.  I followed the instructions to the letter for assembly, which is what any tester should do, but if I was sewing for myself I would finish the side seams and pockets with french seams. I would also lengthen the top bodice 3/8" so that I could fold a seam allowance under for the elastic casing instead of having a serged end visible since it is finished then sewn down to the bodice.  I was only involved in the second round of testing, so I did not make these suggestions to the pattern designer.  She was really looking for errors in the drafting and instructions, not changes to construction methods at that point.  These are simple changes that most advanced sewers would probably choose to do on their own.

She was tired of taking pictures in the hot Texas Sun.  Heck, even the flowers are tired of the sun in this picture.










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